Owl Baby Hat

My cousin Amber asked if I could come up with a pattern for a baby owl hat.  I combined the hat from my Hello Kitty Hat with an adorable owl keychain I saw on Ravelry.  The outcome was quite cute.  She wanted the main hat color to be peach.  I usually work in jewel-tones, which aren’t available in baby yarn.  I made this hat in pastel baby yarns.  The yarn is so unbelievably soft!  It was quite a bit less stretchy than what I normally use, so I had to start over with larger needles halfway through the project.  I should actually start recording my gauge and experience with different fibers.

Disclaimer:  Feel free to make this pattern for your personal use, for your platypus, for charity, or to sell.  The only thing I ask is that you please do not sell it on Etsy.  If you are interested in purchasing a koozie from my Etsy store, you may do so here.

Materials:

• 5 Size 8 Double Pointed Knitting Needles
• US Size 0 Crochet Hook
• US Size 2 Crochet Hook
• 1 Skein Bernat Softee Baby in Soft Peach (P)
• Small amounts of crochet thread in black (K) and white
• Small amount of orange yarn (O)
• Scraps of various sport weight/baby yarn (I used the following:  Bernat Softee Baby in Flannel (G), Lion Brand Jamie in Little Boy Blue (B), Lion Brand Jamie in Light Yellow (Y), Bernat Softee Baby in Little Mouse (N))

Gauge:

9 stitches =13 rows = 2 inches Stockinette Stitch

The hat is about 14″ in circumference unstretched and stretches to about 19.”

Stitches Used:

• Knit (k)
• Pearl (p)
• Knit two together (k2tog)
• Twist two stitches to left (tl)
• Twist two stitches to right (tr)
• Pearl twist to right (pr) – taking needle to front of work, k 2nd stitch on left-hand needle, p 1st stitch, slip both stitches off together
• Pearl twist to left (pl) – taking needle to back of work, p 2nd stitch on left-hand needle through back loop, k 1st stitch, slip both stitches off together
• Chain (ch)
• Slip stitch (sl st)
• Single crochet (sc)
• Half double crochet (hdc)
• Double crochet (dc)
• Triple crochet (trc)

Instructions:

Band:

Cast on 72 stitches with P, knit in round being careful not to twist

R1-R4:  (k2, p2) 18 times (72 stitches)

R5:  (tr, p2) 18 times (72 stitches)

R6:  (k2, p2) 17 times, k2, p1 (71 stitches), leave last stitch unworked, this stitch becomes the first stitch of the next row

R7:  (pr, pl) 18 times (72 stitches)

R8:  (k1, p2, k1) 17 times, k1, p2 (71 stitches), leave last stitch unworked, this stitch becomes the first stitch of the next row

R9:  (tl, p2) 18 times (72 stitches)

R10:  (k2, p2) 17 times, k2, p1 (71) stitches), leave last stitch unworked, this stitch becomes the first stitch of the next row

R11:  (tr, tl) 18 times (72 stitches)

R12:  k71, leave last stitch unworked, this stitch becomes the first stitch of the next row (71 stitches)

R13:  (tl, k2) 18 times (72 stitches)

Knit each following row until the hat is 5 inches long.

Crown:

R1:  (K4, K2tog, SSK, K4) 6 times (60 stitches)

R9:  K60

R10:  (K3, K2tog, SSK, K3) 6 times (48 stitches)

R11:  K48

R12:  (K2, K2tog, SSK, K2) 6 times (36 stitches)

R13:  K36

R14:  (K, K2tog, SSK, K) 6 times (24 stitches)

R15:  K24

R16:  (K2tog, SSK) 6 times (12 stitches)

Cut the yarn with several spare inches.  Thread a tapestry needle and pull yarn through all 12 stitches on needles.  Work in ends.

Owl (Adapted from Owl Keychain Pattern):

With G and size 0 hook ch3 and sl st to form ring.

R1:  Ch3, work 7 dc in ring, sl st in third ch of ch3 which acts as first dc (8 dc)

Fasten off G and work in ends.

R2:  With B sl st between any two dc from R1, ch2 (acts as first hdc), hdc in same space, 2 hdc in each space around, sl st in second ch of ch2. (16 hdc)

Fasten off B and work in ends.

R3:  With Y sc between any two hdc from R2, ch1 , (sc, ch 1) in each space around, sl st in top of first sc (16 sc, 16 ch)

Fasten off Y and work in ends.

R4:  With P sc in any ch 1 space from R3, sc in same space, ch 1, (2 sc, ch1) in each ch 1 space around, sl st in top of first sc (32 sc, 16 ch)

Fasten off P and work in ends.

R5:  With N sc in an ch 1 space from R4, 2 sc in same space, ch 1, (3 sc, ch1) in next 10 ch 1 spaces, 3 dc in next ch 1 space, 2 hdc in next ch 1 space, sc in next ch 1 space, 2 hdc in next ch 1 space, 3 dc in last ch 1 space, sl st to first sc (44 stitches)

R6:  Ch 1, turn, skip first stitch, sc, hdc, dc in same stitch, trc (mark stitch with extra yarn or stitch marker), dc in same stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, dc, trc in same stitch (mark stitch with extra yarn or stitch marker), dc, hdc in same stitch, sc, sl st

Do not fasten off.

With O, embroider beak as shown in picture.

Eyes (Make 2):

With K and size 2 hook, ch3 and sl st to form ring.

R1:  Ch 1, sc 8 in ring, sl st into first sc (8 sc)

Fasten off and work in ends.

R2:  With W, sc in a sc from R1, sc in same sc, (2 sc in each sc) around, sl st to first sc (16 sc)

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.  Sew the eyes onto the owl using the picture for placement.

Owl (continued):

Modified sc (msc):  When you insert your hook under top 2 loops of the stitch below, also insert it under the hat loop directly underneath the stitch on the owl, yarn over, bring loop through hat loop and owl stitch, yarn over and bring loop through both stitches on hook.

R7:  Ch 1, turn, msc in each stitch around, 2 msc in marked stitches, sl st in first msc.

Fasten off and work in ends.

Difficulty:  Moderate

Time Required:  5 Movies

Overall Experience:  Excellent

Okaasan Hug Monster

My husband bought me a book of crocheted monsters, Crochet Bakemono, last year.  I just got around to making one of them, Okaasan, for Valentine’s Day.  Okaasan just begs for a hug.

I had a few issues with the pattern.  At first it wasn’t making sense at all, then I realized it was written in British terms rather than American.  It’s confusing because we use the same terms, but they mean different things.  There was very little instruction on how to cut out and apply the felt pieces.

Difficulty:  Easy

Time Required:  3 Movies

Overall Experience:  Fair

 

 

 

Energo Potholder

My office got a new toaster oven a couple of weeks ago.  My colleagues and I were sitting around the lunchroom talking about it and noting that one of us should bring in a potholder.  One of them mentioned that it would be really cool if I could knit the company logo on a potholder.  Challenge accepted!

I doubt that anyone else wants a knitting pattern for an Energo Engineering potholder.  If I’m wrong, comment on this post, and I’ll be glad to share!

Hello Kitty Hat

One of my coworkers asked me to make a Hello Kitty hat for his 3-year-old daughter.  He wanted it to be primarily pink rather than white (white and 3-year-olds don’t mesh well).  I knitted a hat and crocheted the Hello Kitty face from the Hello Kitty scarf that I made for my sister last year.  I chose a lattice pattern to put around the bottom of the hat to make the hat more feminine.  Afterwards, my coworker asked me to make the same scarf I made my sister.  I would have incorporated some gray into the hat as well if I was planning to make the scarf from the beginning.  The set did turn out really cute!

Disclaimer:  Feel free to make this pattern for your personal use, for your platypus, for charity, or to sell.  The only thing I ask is that you please do not sell it on Etsy.  If you are interested in purchasing a koozie from my Etsy store, you may do so here.

Materials:

• Vanna’s Choice Yarn in Berrylicious (P)
• Vanna’s Choice Yarn in White
• Vanna’s Choice Yarn in Black (B)
• Vanna’s Choice Yarn in Radiant Yellow (Y)
• 5 Size US 7 Double Pointed Needles
• Size H Crochet Hook

Stitches Used:

• Knit (k)
• Pearl (p)
• Knit two together (k2tog)
• Twist two stitches to left (tl)
• Twist two stitches to right (tr)
• Pearl twist to right (pr) – taking needle to front of work, k 2nd stitch on left-hand needle, p 1st stitch, slip both stitches off together
• Pearl twist to left (pl) – taking needle to back of work, p 2nd stitch on left-hand needle through back loop, k 1st stitch, slip both stitches off together
• Chain (ch)
• Slip stitch (sl st)
• Single crochet (sc)
• Single crochet 2 tog (sc2tog)
• Half double crochet (hdc)
• Double crochet (dc)
• Triple crochet (trc)

Instructions:

Band:

Cast on 84 stitches with P, knit in round being careful not to twist

R1-R4:  (k2, p2) 21 times (84 stitches)

R5:  (tr, p2) 21 times (84 stitches)

R6:  (k2, p2) 20 times, k2, p1 (83 stitches), leave last stitch unworked, this stitch becomes the first stitch of the next row

R7:  (pr, pl) 21 times (84 stitches)

R8:  (k1, p2, k1) 20 times, k1, p2 (83 stitches), leave last stitch unworked, this stitch becomes the first stitch of the next row

R9:  (tl, p2) 21 times (84 stitches)

R10:  (k2, p2) 20 times, k2, p1 (83) stitches), leave last stitch unworked, this stitch becomes the first stitch of the next row

R11:  (tr, tl) 21 times (84 stitches)

R12:  k83, leave last stitch unworked, this stitch becomes the first stitch of the next row (83 stitches)

R13:  (tl, k2) 21 times (84 stitches)

Knit each following row until the hat is 5.5 inches long.

Crown:

R1:  (K4, K2tog, SSK, K4) 7 times (70 stitches)

R2:  K70

R3:  (K3, K2tog, SSK, K3) 7 times (56 stitches)

R4:  K56

R5:  (K2, K2tog, SSK, K2) 7 times (42 stitches)

R6:  K42

R7:  (K, K2tog, SSK, K) 7 times (28 stitches)

R8:  K28

R9:  (K2tog, SSK) 7 times (14 stitches)

Cut the yarn with several spare inches.  Thread a tapestry needle and pull yarn through all 14 stitches on needles.  Work in ends.

Hello Kitty Face (from Made by K):

Switch to crocheting with W and crochet hook.

R1:  Ch5, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 3 stitches (4 stitches)

R2: ch1, turn, 2 sc in next stitch, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in bottom of same sc, 3 sc in bottoms of next 3 sc, sl st to 1st sc of current round (12 stitches)

R3: ch1, turn, sc, 2 sc in next stitch, sc x 2, 2 sc in next stitch x 3, sc x 4, 2 sc in next stitch, sl st to 1st sc of current round (18 stitches)

R4: ch1, turn, sc, 2 sc in next stitch, sc x 6, 2 sc in next stitch x 3, sc x 6, 2 sc in next stitch, sl st to 1st sc of current round (24 stitches)

R5: ch1, turn, sc x 2, 2 sc in next stitch, sc x 6, 2 sc in next stitch, sc, 2 sc in next stitch, sc, 2 sc in next stitch, sc x 8, 2 sc in next stitch, sc, sl st to 1st sc of current round (30 stitches)

R6: ch1, turn, sc x 3, 2 sc in next stitch, sc x 8, 2 sc in next stitch, sc, 2 sc in next stitch, sc x 2, 2 sc in next stitch, sc x 10, 2 sc in next stitch, sc, sl st to 1st sc of current round (36 stitches)

R7: ch1, turn, sc x 3, 2 sc in next stitch, sc x 10, 2 sc in next stitch, sc x 2, 2 sc in next stitch, sc x 2, sl st, hdc, ch1, dc in same stitch as hdc, ch 1, trc, ch 1, dc, ch1, hdc in same stitch as dc, sl st, sc x 4, sl st, hdc, ch1, dc in same stitch as hdc, ch 1, trc, ch 1, dc, ch1, hdc in same stitch as dc, sl st, sc x 2, sl st to 1st sc of current round and break off and work in ends (52 stitches)

Embroider eyes and nose on face using B and Y.

Hair Bow:

R1:  With P, ch5, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 3 stitches (4 stitches)

R2:  Ch1, turn, sc 4 (4 stitches)

R3:  Ch1, turn, sc2tog twice (2 stitches)

R4:  Ch1, turn, sc 2 (2 stitches)

R5:  Ch1, turn, sc 2 in next stitch x 2 (4 stitches)

R6:  Ch1, turn, sc 4 (4 stitches)

R7:  Ch1, turn, sc 4  break off and work in ends (4 stitches)

Pinching center of bow together, sew the bow onto the face while wrapping the yarn around the center of the bow

Connecting the Face to the Hat:

Modified sc (msc):  When you insert your hook under top 2 loops of the stitch below, also insert it under the hat loop directly underneath the stitch on the face, yarn over, bring loop through hat loop and face stitch, yarn over and bring loop through both stitches on hook.

Hold the face in place on the hat.  With P, sl st to any stitch on R7 of the face, ch1, msc in same stitch.  Msc in each stitch on face except trc, place 3 msc in each trc, after completing all msc, sl st in first msc.

Embroider whiskers on face.

Difficulty:  Moderate

Time Required:  5 Movies

Overall Experience:  Excellent

Crochet Miniature Dachshund

Two of my friends have a dachshund that they absolutely adore.  So I made them dachshund related Christmas gifts.  I was planning to create a pattern for the dog, which is about an inch long, but I had such a hard time with making it that I couldn’t keep track of the stitches.  I made the dog of embroidery floss using a size US 14 hook.  I had a hard time seeing the stitches and kept having to rip them out.  The overall product turned out really cute!

 

 

 

Holiday Activities

I completed a couple of fun craft-related activities over the holidays.  While visiting my family in Indiana, my sister wanted to improve her crocheting skills so that she could crochet something for her 4-H arts and crafts project.  My grandma came over and my mom, sister, grandma, and I spent the afternoon crocheting flowers.  It was a lot of fun to spend time together doing something we all enjoy.  Here are some flowers my grandma already had made plus the flowers we made that afternoon.

After getting back to Houston, I decided my stash was getting out of control.  My husband built me a set of cubbyholes, and I organized my yarn into bins by color.  I’m excited to have it all organized!

 

Katniss Cowl

You may purchase the cowl from my Etsy shop here.

As the Catching Fire promotional material came out a few months ago, a cowl that Katniss was wearing became quite popular in the knitting community. When my mom texted me that my sister was in love with a sweater thing from the new Hunger Games movie, I knew exactly what she was talking about. I found some patterns online, but they were all missing something from the original. I decided to make up my own.

The overall effect of the cowl turned out stunningly well. The cowl, in a size small, was a little smaller and tighter than the original, but very close. I’ve read that the original garment was woven rather than just knitted. The actual knitting is very simple, but the garment construction is difficult.

Sizes

I made the original garment in a size small, fitting it to myself as I went.  I’ve received some requests for other sizes, so I have provided some alternate (untested) sizes.  The garment is stretchy and forgiving.  Let me how it turns out if you make one of the other sizes!  They are based off of the following chest measurements:

• Small:  33-34 inches
• Medium:  35-36 inches
• Large:  37-39 inches
• Extra-Large:  40-42 inches

The length/stitch count for the small is shown first outside of parenthesis.  The other sizes follow inside of parenthesis, i.e. small (medium, large, extra large).  The pattern gets a little long and confusing with the different sizes, so I would suggest printing the pattern and highlighting the size you are making.

Materials

• About 6.5 (6.75, 7.00, 7.25) ft of 3/4 in synthetic rope
• About 3.5 (3.75, 4.00, 4.00)  ft of 3/8 in synthetic rope
• 5 skeins of Vanna’s Choice in Grey Marble
• 3 size US 15 knitting needles
• Size G crochet hook
• 5 size US 6 knitting needles (optional: only needed if you choose to knit rather than crochet the caps that go over the ends of the ropes)
• Tapestry needle
• Grey duck tape
• Lighter

Stitches Used

• Chain (ch)
• Single crochet (sc)
• Slip stitch (sl st)
• Knit (k)
• Pearl (p)
• Knit two together (k2tog)
• Pearl two together (p2tog)
• Slip (sl)

Neck

The neck was definitely the most tedious part of the cowl to make.  The method I used looks very much like the real cowl, but it turned out quite stiff. Modified crocheted stitches are used to cover the rope in yarn.  The rest of the garment is knitted.

• Cut the 3/4 in rope at 34 (35, 37, 38) inches.  The rope will likely have three strands.  On each end, cut 1 in from one strand, 1/2 in from the second strand, and leave the third strand alone.  The end of your rope should look like this:

• Find a non-flammable surface outside.  Form the piece of rope into a circle and align the ends so that the short piece on one is touching the short piece on the other end.  The two mid-sized pieces should be touching.  Use the lighter to melt the rope and fuse the piece into a circle.  It’s OK if it’s a little lumpy.

• Wrap the circle in duck tape.  This hides whatever neon color your rope is and gives the circle some extra stability.

• Tie a knot around your crochet hook.  Wrap the yarn around the rope circle and ch.  Continue wrapping and chaining until the entire circle is covered in yarn.  The chain should be on the bottom of your circle.  You may need to periodically push the yarn closer together to make sure no duck tape is showing.  Break off and work in ends.

• Cut 39 (40, 42, 43) in sections of both the 3/4 in and 3/8 in rope.  Cover both sections in duck tape to hide the neon coloring.

• The next two ropes will not be circular, so an approximately 2 in cap needs to be made for each end of the two ropes.  I already had my crochet hook in my hand, so I crocheted them.  I included directions for alternative knitted caps, but they are untested. If some tries it, let me know how it works!

Crocheted Large Cap (Make 2)

R1:  Ch 3, sl st into first ch to create ring

R2:  Sc 6 in ring, sl st in first sc (6 sc)

R3:  Ch 1, sc 2 in each sc, sl st in first sc (12 sc)

R4-R8:  Ch 1, sc in each sc, sl st in first sc (12 sc)

Break off and work in ends.

Alternative Knitted Large Caps (Make 2)

Cast on 12 stitches using the double pointed needles. Distribute stitches on four needles evenly.

R1-R6: Knitting in round, k12

R7: K2tog six times

Cut yarn and pull end through all six live stitches. Pull tight and work in ends.

Crocheted Small Cap (Make 2)

R1:  Ch 3, sl st into first ch to create ring

R2:  Ch 1, sc 6 in ring, sl st in first sc (6 sc)

R3-R8:  Ch 1, sc in each sc, sl st in first sc  (6 sc)

Break off and work in ends.

Alternative Knitted Small Caps (Make 2)

Cast on 6 stitches using the double pointed needles. Distribute stitches on three needles evenly.

R1-R7: Knitting in round, k6

Cut yarn and pull end through all six live stitches. Pull tight and work in ends.

Neck (Continued)

• Place larger caps on the ends of the 3/4 in rope.  They should fit snugly.  Sl st into cap about 1 in from the end of the rope on “bottom.”  Wrap the yarn around the rope and cap and sl st into cap until you reach the end of the cap.
• Wrap the yarn around the rope and ch until 4 in of the rope is covered.
• Ch 5 bringing the chain along the inside of the rope, sl st into a ch on the circular piece of rope.

• Wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the next ch on the circular piece of rope.  Continue until 3 in of the rope is left uncovered.  You may have to wrap the yarn around the rope twice or sl st into the same ch twice to make sure that all of the rope is covered at any time during this process.
• Ch 5 bring the chain along the inside of the rope.  Wrap the yarn around the rope and ch until you reach the cap.
• Wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the bottom of the cap.  Continue until you are about 1 in from the end of the cap.  Break off and work in ends.

• Place smaller caps on the ends of the 3/8 in rope.  The should fit snugly.  Hold the smaller rope directly underneath the 3/4 in non-circular rope.  Starting 1 in from the end of the cap, wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the larger cap.  Continue until you reach the end of the caps.
• Wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the ch on the non-circular rope until 4 in of rope is covered.
• Wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the yarn wrapping around larger non-circular rope until 3 in of rope is left uncovered.
• Wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the ch on the non-circular rope until you are 1 in from the end of the cap.  Break off and work in ends.

Torso and Shoulders

The hard part is done.  Yay!  The torso and shoulder sections are very simply knitted.  If you look at the texture of the real garment, it has an effect of being knitted, but each column of stitches is a different size.  As mentioned before, the garment was actually woven.    Each of the neck sections is likely to come together slightly differently so adjustments may need to be made.

Holding two strands of yarn together as one, cast 20 stitches on your Size US 15 knitting needles.  Knit Pattern 1 until your piece measures 3 in.

Pattern 1

R1:  K20

R2:  (P1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) four times

Continue using Pattern 2 until the piece measure about 19 (20, 21.5, 23) inches ending on R2.  All measurements starting here should be measured on the edge of the fabric AWAY from the neck section.  The fabric will be slightly gathered at the neck section.  For the first 12 (12.5, 13.5, 14.5) inches, pick up a stitch every 1/2 in.  Pick up a stitch every 1/4 in afterwards.  The stitches should be picked up starting at the bottom side of the 4 in free end of the 3/8 in covered rope.

Pattern 2

R1:  K20, pick up stitch on bottom of 3/8 in covered rope.

R2:  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, sl 1

Ending on R2, leave the live stitches on one of your three needles.  Right side facing, pick up 20 (22, 25, 27) stitches holding two strands together as one on the bottom approximately  6 (6.5, 7.5, 8) six inches on the right side of the section you just knitted.  Following Pattern 3, knit 12 inches ending on R1.

Pattern 3

R1 (small):  (Sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) four times

R1 (medium):  (Sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) four times, sl 1, p1

R1 (large):  (Sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) five times

R1 ( extra large):  (Sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) five times, sl 1, p1

R2:  Sl 1, k19 (k21, k24, k26)

The next step is to work the stitches that are on both needles together and decrease back down from 40 (42, 45, 47) stitches to 20.  Continue picking up stitches about every 1/4 in.

Decrease Pattern

R1:  Continuing with needle holding the last row from Pattern 3, Sl 1, k19 (k21, k24, k26), continuing with the needle holding last row from Pattern 2, K20, pick up stitch on bottom of 3/8 in covered rope

R2 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) three times, p1, sl 2, p1

R2 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) four times, p1

R2 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) four times, p1, sl 2, p1

R2 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) five times, p1

R3:  Sl 1, k17 (19, 22, 24), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R4 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times

R4 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times, sl 1, p1

R4 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) four times

R4 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) four times, sl 1, p1

R5:  Sl 1, k15 (17, 20, 22) k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R6 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times

R6 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times, sl 1, p1

R6 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times, sl 1, p1

R6 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times, sl 1, p1

R7:  Sl 1, k13 (15, 18, 20), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R8 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) two times, sl 2, p1

R8 (medium): P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times

R8 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1

R8 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) four times

R9:  Sl 1, k11 (13, 16, 18), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R10 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2) two times, p1

R10 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2) two times, p1, sl 1, p1

R10 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2) three times, p1

R10 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2) three times, p1, sl 1, p1

R11:  Sl 1, k9 (11, 14, 16), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R12 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1

R12 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) two times, p1

R12 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) two times, p1, sl 2, p1

R12 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) three times, p1

R13:  Sl 1, k7 (9, 12, 14), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R14 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1

R14 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1

R14 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) two times

R14 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) two times, sl 1, p1

R15:  Sl 1, k5 (7, 10, 12), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R16 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1

R16 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1

R16 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) two times

R16 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) two times, sl 1, p1

R17:  Sl 1, k3 (5, 8, 10), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R18 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 2, p1

R18 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1

R18 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1

R18 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) two times

R19:  Sl 1, k1 (3, 6, 8), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R20 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1

R20 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 1, p1

R20 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1

R20 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1

R21:  sl 0 (1, 1, 1), k0 (1, 4, 6), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R22 (small):  Not applicable (NA)

R22 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1

R22 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 2, p1

R22 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1

R23: (small NA)  sl (0, 1, 1), k (0, 2, 4), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R24 (small):  NA

R24 (medium):  NA

R24 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1

R24 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1

R25: (small, medium NA)  sl (NA, 1, 1), k (NA, 0, 2), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R26 (small):  NA

R26 (medium):  NA

R26 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog

R26 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1

R27 (small):  NA

R27 (medium):  NA

R27 (large):  K20, pick up stitch

R27 (extra large):  sl 1, k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R28 (small):  NA

R28 (medium):  NA

R28 (large):  NA

R28 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog

R29 (small):  NA

R29 (medium):  NA

R29 (large):  NA

R29 (extra large):  K20, pick up stitch

Continue using Pattern 4 for 6 (6.5, 7.25, 8) more inches ending on R1.

Pattern 4

R1:  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, sl 1

R2:  K20, pick up stitch

Some additional shaping is required for the left shoulder.  Knit the Shoulder Repeat Pattern three times.

Shoulder Increase Pattern

R1:  K17

R2:  Sl 2, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) three times

R3:  K15

R4:  Sl 3, p1, sl 1, (p1, sl2, p1,  sl 1) two times

R5:  K12

R6:  Sl 2, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) two times

R7:  K10

R8:  Sl 3, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1

R9:  K7

R10:  Sl 2, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1

R11:  K5

R12:  Sl 3, p1, sl1

R13:  K2

R14:  Sl 2

R15:  K20, pick up a stitch

R16:  P2tog, sl 2, p1, sl 1, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) three times

R17:  K20, pick up a stitch

R18:  P2tog, sl 2, p1, sl 1, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) three times

After repeating the Shoulder Increase Pattern three times, continue using Pattern 4 until you reach the end of the rope ending on a R2.  You may have to bind off differently to make everything fit together right.  I bound off 12 of the stitches. I then followed Pattern 5 for three more inches and bound off the remaining stitches.

Pattern 5

R1:  Sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1

R2:  K8

Whip stitch the bound off stitches to the left side of where you started knitting along four inch free end of the rope sections as shown below.

Front Triangular Section

The last step is to add a triangular section near where you began decreasing from 40 (42, 45, 47) to 20 stitches.  Holding two strands of yarn together as one, pick up 12 stitches pearl-wise along the bottom of the top section starting at the corner where the two sections come together.  See the picture below.  Follow the triangle pattern below.

Triangle Pattern

R1:  K12

R2:  P1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R3:  K10, k2tog

R4:  Sl2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R5:  K9 k2tog

R6:  Sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R7:  K8, k2tog

R8:  P1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R9:  K7, k2tog

R10:  Sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R11:  K6, k2tog

R12:  P1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R13:  K5, k2tog

R14:  Sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R15:  K4, k2tog

R16:  Sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R17:  K3, k2tog

R18:  P1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R19:  K2, k2tog

R20:  Sl 1, p1, sl 1

R21:  K1, k2tog

R22: p1, sl 1

R23:  K2 tog

Bind off.  Whip stitch the bottom of the triangular section to the portion below it as shown in the picture.

Baby Turkey Hat

We have moved!  Please click on the link below to get to the baby turkey hat pattern.

http://howserrn79136.ipage.com/baby-turkey-hat/

 

Wedding Afghans

An acquaintance who had been in countless wedding once showed me a crocheted blanket that a bride had made her.  She gushed about how that gift was the most meaningful bridesmaid gift she had ever received.  Since I crochet, I tucked that little tidbit of information away for later.  When I got engaged, I pushed my fiance to help me pick out colors so I could start on the pile of blankets I was planning on making.

I decided to make blankets for our three bridesmaids and both sets of parents.  I had to make five blankets, so I needed to find an afghan pattern that I could make fairly quickly.  I have made many afghans that took me months to make.  I didn’t have that much time.  I had an afghan pattern pinned named “Super Quick Throw.”  The blanket was crocheted with four strands of yarn held together as one with a giant hook.  That’s about as quick as one can hope for.  The blankets crocheted beautifully.

I do have a few tips:

• The pattern is available free on the Red Heart website.
• I bought yarn in bulk in our wedding colors.  I chose acrylic yarn because it holds up well and for the price.  It crocheted into a stiff, scratchy blanket.  However, after washing and drying each blanket once, they were completely transformed.  They became pliable and soft.
• The pattern calls for a hook size P-16 (11.5 mm).  I couldn’t find a hook this size and ended up with a 10 mm hook.  I adjusted by crocheting to the correct size rather than the correct number of stitches.  The pattern is easy, so it wasn’t hard to do.  The rows that require a certain number of stitches have a three stitch repeat.  There is a two stitch “border” on each side.  This means that your starting row should have a total stitch number that is a multiple of 3 plus 4 stitches.  (As written, the pattern calls for 58 stitches.  This is a multiple of 3 (54/3=18) plus 4.)  I don’t remember how many stitches I used.  I think it was 70.  Whatever gets you to a 48 inch wide blanket.
• I used the no foundation row starting technique instead of the chain start technique in the pattern.  Here is a good tutorial.  This technique keeps your tension from being off in the first row and is easier to measure your 48 inches.
• With the same “size verses stitches” philosophy, you should repeat Rows 2-7 until the blanket is the length you want.  The pattern calls for 58 inches.  I wanted my blanket to be at least 60 inches so I repeated until I finished on a Row 7 with a length greater than 60 inches.
• The edges of the blanket turned out a little jagged.  I finished the blanket off with a border.  I slip stitched in each stitch on the short edges and single crocheted along the long edges.  This cleaned the blankets up nicely.

Difficulty:  Easy

Time Required:  About 13 movies per blanket

Overall Experience:  Excellent

 

Little Lady Slippers

My friend Parnak’s baby shower is today.  I’m so sad that I’m missing it!  I still have a lot of things to do for my wedding and just didn’t have time to drive to San Antonio, spend a whole day, and drive back.  In addition to the “real” present that I shipped, I sent these sweet little baby booties.  The pattern is available in Booties by the Dozen by Kay Meadors.  This is my go to book for baby booties.  I love these patterns!  I didn’t alter the pattern from what is written.  The pattern is really simply, so I don’t really have any tips either!

Difficulty:  Easy

Time Required:  2 Movies

Overall Experience:  Excellent