Baby Baseball Hat

In honor of Craig Biggio being elected for the baseball hall of fame today, I will finish my summer of baby hats (I know…  I’m super behind.  Other hats included:  Chappy Newsboy Cap, Lacey Summer Baby Cap, Elmo Inspired Baby Hat, and Emory Beanie.) with my baby baseball hat.  Some friends of mine are huge Astros fans, so when they had a baby I naturally wanted to make them a baseball hat.  I had seen pictures of hats I liked, but couldn’t find a pattern.  I ended up remaking the Chappy Newsboy Cap with same alterations.  Instead of single crocheting in the front and back loops, I single crocheted in both loops to give a smoother texture.  I crocheted the hat in white with a red brim and embroidered baseball stitching over the white.  It turned out super cute!

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Difficulty:  Easy

Time Required:  2 Movies

Overall Experience:  Good

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Elmo Inspired Baby Hat

To continue my summer of baby hats (see Chappy Newsboy Caps and Lacey Summer Baby Cap), one of my coworkers had a baby (or rather his wife did).  They also have a toddler at home that loves Elmo.  I decided to rework my Oscar the Grouch hat for a newborn size and make an Elmo hat for their toddler.  I was rewarded with adorable pictures and videos of both babies the next day.  The Elmo hat was a huge hit!  I love that he liked it so much.  Usually when I make things, I don’t know if the item just sits in a drawer (meaning I wasted hours of my life) or is loved by the recipient.  The later makes me happy.  🙂

 

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Disclaimer:  Feel free to make this pattern for your personal use, for your platypus, for charity, or to sell.  The only thing I ask is that you please do not sell it on Etsy.  If you are interested in purchasing a hat from my Etsy store, you may do so here.

Gauge:  9 stitches x 13 rows = 2 in Stockinette

This hat was about 16 inches in circumference when finished.  It is quite stretchy and will stretch several inches.

Materials:

  • 5 Size US 7 double pointed needles
  • US Size G Crochet Hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Vanna’s Choice yarn in Scarlet (R)
  • Vanna’s Choice yarn in Black (B)
  • Vanna’s Choice yarn in White (W)
  • Vanna’s Choice yarn in Terracotta (O)

Stitches Used:

Instructions:

Cast on 72 with R and distribute evenly on four needles

R1-R7:  Knitting in round, KR 72

R8:  KR 28, KB 16, KR 28

R9:  KR 26, KB 20, KR 26

R10:  KR 25, KB 22, KR 25

R11-R12:  KR 24, KB 24, KR 24

R13:  KR 23, KB26, KR 23

Continuing only in R:

R14-R34:  K 72

R35:  (K4, k2tog, ssk, K4) six times

R36:  K60

R37:  (K3, k2tog, ssk, K3) six times

R38:  K48

R39:  (K2, k2tog, ssk, K2) six times

R40:  K36

R41:  (K, k2tog, ssk, K) six times

R42:  K24

R43:  (k2tog, ssk) six times

Cut the yarn with several spare inches.  Thread a tapestry needle and pull yarn through all 12 stitches on needles.  Work in ends.

 

Eyes (make 2):

R1:  With B use magic ring technique to start round, ch 1, sc 8, sl st to first sc.  Cut yarn and work in ends. (8 stitches)

Continue with W

R2:  2 sc in first stitch from R1 and in each sc around, sl st to first sc (16 stitches)

R3:  Ch 1, sc in same stitch as sl st, sc in next stitch * 2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * 2 more times, 2 sc in last stitch, sl st to first sc (20 stitches)

R4-R6:  Ch 1, sc in each stitch around, sl st to first sc (20 stitches)

R7:  Ch 1, sc in same stitch as sl st, sc in next stitch * sc2tog, 1 sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * 2 more times, sc2tog, sl st to first sc (16 stitches)

R8:  Ch 1, sc2tog around, sl st to first sc (8 stitches)

R9:  Ch 1, sc four together by slipping hook under the stitch from the row below, wrapping the yarn, and pulling a loop through, slip hook under next stitch and pull another loop, repeat until you have done this four times and there are five loops on your hook, yarn over and pull loop through all five loops, sc last four stitches together using the same method, sl st to first stitch (2 stitches)

Cut yarn and work in ends.

 

Nose:

R1:  With O use magic ring technique to start round, ch 1, sc 8, sl st to first sc (8 stitches)

R2:  2 sc in first stitch from R1 and in each sc around, sl st to first sc (16 stitches)

R3:  Ch 1, sc in same stitch as sl st, sc in next stitch * 2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * 2 more times, 2 sc in last stitch, sl st to first sc (20 stitches)

R4-R10:  Ch 1, sc in each stitch around, sl st to first sc (20 stitches)

R11:  Ch 1, sc in same stitch as sl st, sc in next stitch * sc2tog, 1 sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * 2 more times, sc2tog, sl st to first sc (16 stitches)

R12:  Ch 1, sc2tog around, sl st to first sc (8 stitches)

R13:  Ch 1, sc four together by slipping hook under the stitch from the row below, wrapping the yarn, and pulling a loop through, slip hook under next stitch and pull another loop, repeat until you have done this four times and there are five loops on your hook, yarn over and pull loop through all five loops, sc last four stitches together using the same method, sl st to first stitch (2 stitches)

Cut yarn and work in ends.

 

Using a picture of Elmo as inspiration, tack the eyes and nose onto the hat using a tapestry needle and yarn.  I would also suggest tacking the eyes and nose to each other.

Difficulty:  Moderate

Time Required:  2 Movies

Overall Experience:  Excellent

 

Gospel Presentation and Cross Bracelets

This summer I helped to teach dance at a sports camp sponsored by my church.  I was in charge of the middle and high school girls.  As part of our Bible lesson, we made gospel presentation bracelets consisting of several colored beads.  Each color represents part of the gospel presentation.  In short:  The black bead represents the darkness of sin in each man.  The red bead represents Jesus’ blood and sacrifice.  The white bead represents the washing away of our sin.  The yellow bead represents heaven.  The green bead represents growing in a relationship with God.  Here is a link providing Bible verses for each color and a tutorial on how to make the bracelet.

My girls liked jewelry, so I crocheted cross bracelets to give them if they had their memory verse memorized to sign language.  Many of them didn’t speak English, but they could still participate using sign language.  I used this necklace tutorial and used a simple chain slip stitched to the top and bottom of the cross to make it a bracelet.  The girls were so excited!

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Superman Koozie

I created a Superman inspired koozie pattern.  The main design is achieved through fair isle stranding.  The crisp, raised border is cabled.  Enjoy!  You can also buy the koozie here.

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Disclaimer:  Feel free to make this pattern for your personal use, for your platypus, for charity, or to sell.  The only thing I ask is that you please do not sell it on Etsy.  If you are interested in purchasing a koozie from my Etsy store, you may do so here.

Materials:

  • 5 Size US 4 double pointed needles
  • Vanna’s Choice Yarn in Sapphire (B)
  • Vanna’s Choice Yarn in Scarlett (R)
  • Vanna’s Choice Yarn in Radiant Yellow (Y)
  • Stitch Holder or Extra Needle

Stitches Used:

Gauge:

10 stitches and 15 rows = 2″ Stockinette Stitch

Instructions:

Cast on 48 stitches with B.  Distribute stitches evenly on four of the double pointed needles.

R1:  Knitting in round being careful not to twist the cast on stitches, (kB 2, pB 2) 12 times.

R2-R5:  (kB 2, pB 2) 12 times

R6-R11:  kB 48

R12:  kB 15, kR 18, kB 15

R13:  kB 14, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with R, kR16, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kR 1, knit held stitch with R, kB 14

R14:  kB 13, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with R, kY 2, kR 12, kY 2, kR 2, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kR 1, knit held stitch with R, kB 13

R15:  kB 12, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with R, kY 2, kR 5, kY 6, kR 3, kY 1, kR 2, kY 1, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kR 1, knit held stitch with R, kB 12

R16:  kB 11, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with R, kY 2, kR 4, kY 10, kR 4, kY 2, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kR 1, knit held stitch with R, kB 11

R17:  kB 10, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with R, kY 2, kR 5, kY 10, kR 4, kY 3, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kR 1, knit held stitch with R, kB 10

R18:  kB 10, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in FRONT, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 1, kY 1, kR 7, kY 14, kR 1, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in BACK, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 10

R19:  kB 11, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 17, kY 4, kR 1, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 11

R20:  kB 12, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 18, kY 1, kR 1, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 12

R21:  kB 13, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 1, kY 1, kR 16, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 13

R22:  kB 14, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 1, kY 2, kR 13, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 14

R23:  kB 15, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 1, kY 7, kR 6, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 15

R24:  kB 16, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 5, kY 5, kR 2, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 16

R25:  kB 17, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 10, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 17

R26:  kB 18, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 8, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 18

R27:  kB 19, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 1, kY 4, kR 1, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 19

R28:  kB 20, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 1, kY 2, kR 1, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 20

R29:  kB 21, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, kR 2, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 21

R30:  kB 22, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in front, kB 1, knit held stitch with R, slip next stitch on cable needle and hold in back, kR 1, knit held stitch with B, kB 22

R32:  kB 22, kfb of next stitch with B, k2tog with R, kB 23

Continue with B only

R33-R36:  k48

R37:  (k2, k2tog) 12 times

R38:  (k2, k2tog) 9 times

R39:  (k1, k2tog) 9 times

R40:  (k2tog) 9 times

Difficulty:  Easy

Time Required:  2 Movies

Overall Experience:  Excellent

Bombshell Shorts

I finally finished my Bombshell Shorts!  It took me a while because I had several other projects in the works at the same time.  They turned out adorable.  I love love love them.  The pattern was very customizable.  My goal here is to share how I customized it and what I would do differently if I made them again.

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  • The length of the shorts is customizable.  The length that is suggested is longer than I would wear, but a short length suggestion isn’t given.  I knitted the band at the bottom of the shorts and knit the first 8 rows of the first 16 row repeat before joining.  I like the length of the front of the shorts, but my butt requires more material in the back.  They are shorter than I would prefer in the back.  I would knit 12-16 rows of the first 16 row repeat before joining if I were to make them again.  Ideally, the back could be made longer.  At least on me, the difference in length in the front and back is noticeable if you are really looking.  I don’t think there is really any way to do that with this pattern.
  • The pattern suggests that the knitter can decrease for butt shaping if a gap starts to form, but doesn’t give any details on where to decrease.  I didn’t have a noticeable gap until I reached Row 8 of my fourth 16 row repeat.  I made a size medium and decreased as follows:
    • Row 9:  Pearl each stitch until two stitches before the first 4-Stitch Cable, pearl two together, follow established pattern until last 4-Stitch Cable is complete, pearl two together though back loops, pearl until end of row (following rows will have two fewer pear stitches in back panel)
    • Row 10:  Follow pattern until second 4-Stitch Cable is complete, pearl 1, pearl two together, Celtic Cable, pearl two together through back loops, follow pattern until sixth 4-Stitch Cable is complete, pearl 1, pearl two together, Celtic Cable, pearl two together through back loops, follow pattern until end of row (the following rows will have one fewer pearl stitch on each side of Celtic Cable)
    • Row 11:  Pearl each stitch until two stitches before the first 4-Stitch Cable, pearl two together, follow established pattern until last 4-Stitch Cable is complete, pearl two together though back loops, pearl until end of row (following rows will have two fewer pear stitches in back panel)
    • Row 12:  Follow established pattern
    • Row 13:  Pearl each stitch until two stitches before the first 4-Stitch Cable, pearl two together, follow established pattern until last 4-Stitch Cable is complete, pearl two together though back loops, pearl until end of row (following rows will have two fewer pear stitches in back panel)
    • Row 14:  Follow established pattern
    • Row 15:  Pearl each stitch until two stitches before the first 4-Stitch Cable, pearl two together, follow established pattern until last 4-Stitch Cable is complete, pearl two together though back loops, pearl until end of row (following rows will have two fewer pear stitches in back panel)
    • Row 16:  Follow established pattern
  • My shorts bunch a little bit in the front crotch area.  If I were to make these again, I would try to work out some shaping in this area.

Difficulty:  Moderate-Hard

Time Required:  40 Movies

Overall Experience:  Excellent

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Okaasan Hug Monster

My husband bought me a book of crocheted monsters, Crochet Bakemono, last year.  I just got around to making one of them, Okaasan, for Valentine’s Day.  Okaasan just begs for a hug.

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I had a few issues with the pattern.  At first it wasn’t making sense at all, then I realized it was written in British terms rather than American.  It’s confusing because we use the same terms, but they mean different things.  There was very little instruction on how to cut out and apply the felt pieces.

Difficulty:  Easy

Time Required:  3 Movies

Overall Experience:  Fair